If you are re-hanging a gutter and deciding between hidden hangers and the spike-and-ferrule setup that is probably already up there, the practical difference is this: a spike relies on friction in a hole that keeps getting bigger, and a hidden hanger relies on a screw thread biting into framing. One of those loosens over time and the other does not.
How each one actually holds
Spikes and ferrules
A gutter spike is a long nail. It goes through the front lip of the gutter, through a tube called a ferrule that keeps the trough from crushing, on through the back of the gutter and the fascia, and into the rafter end. The ferrule does its job well. The spike is the weak point: it is a smooth shank held by friction alone.
Wood moves. Fascia expands and contracts with every wet and dry cycle and every hot and cold one, and each cycle works the spike out a fraction. That is why you see gutters with spike heads standing an inch proud, and why the standard homeowner fix — tapping them back in with a hammer — lasts about a season. The hole is now oversized, so the second driving holds even less well than the first.
Hidden hangers
A hidden hanger is a bracket that sits inside the trough. The hooked end clips over the rolled front lip of the gutter, the other end clips to the back wall, and a screw drives through the back of the gutter, through the fascia, and into the rafter end. The thread cuts into the wood and stays engaged. Seasonal movement does not back a thread out the way it backs out a smooth shank.
The bracket also spreads its grip across the whole gutter profile instead of pinching one point at the front lip, so it holds the shape of the trough rather than deforming it.
The differences that matter on the job
Appearance
This is usually the one that decides it. A spike puts a visible nail head every couple of feet along the face of the gutter, in a straight line, at eye level from the street. A hidden hanger sits behind the gutter lip and is invisible from the ground. The run reads as one clean line.
Holding power
Threads beat friction. A hidden hanger keeps its grip through the freeze and thaw cycles that push spikes out, which is why the fix tends to be permanent rather than annual.
Damage to the gutter
A spike puts two holes through the gutter, one of them in the front face where it is visible and where water sits against it. Hidden hangers put one hole through the back wall, above the water line, hidden behind the trough.
Installation
Driving a spike means swinging a hammer at the top of a ladder while holding a gutter in line. Hidden hangers clip in and hold their own position while you get a driver on them. Our brackets ship with the screw already fitted, so there is no separate screw to line up one-handed. One 1/4-inch nut driver does it.
Cost
Spikes are cheaper per piece. Hidden hangers cost more up front and less over the life of the gutter, because you are not going back up every spring to knock spikes in again. On a re-hang, the labour to do the job twice is worth more than the difference in hardware.
When a spike is still reasonable
To be fair to spikes: if you are patching one loose point on a gutter that is otherwise sound and due for replacement anyway, a spike and ferrule is a legitimate quick repair, and it is what is already on hand. It is a repair, not a fix.
Switching an existing run over
You do not have to take the gutter down. Work along the run, pull the old spikes, and put hidden hangers in at 18 to 24 inch spacing. Do not place a new hanger in the old spike hole — move over a few inches into sound wood. The bracket is designed to pull a sagging run back up as you drive it, so work along the length rather than starting at the low point.
Check the fascia while you are up there. If the board is soft or rotted it will not hold either type of fastener, and it needs replacing before anything else is worth doing.
The full sequence is on our installation guide. Sizes are 5 inch and 6 inch, in packs from 10 up to 500, and every one ships with the screw already in the bracket.
Questions about a specific run? Call (732) 730-7334.
Common questions
Do I have to take the gutter down to switch over?
No. Pull the spike and ferrule, slide a hidden hanger in at roughly the same point, and drive it home. The run stays up the whole time.
What do I do with the old spike holes?
Seal them. A dab of gutter sealant on each old hole takes a minute and saves you wondering about drips later.
Are hidden hangers strong enough for snow and ice?
The holding power comes from what the screw is anchored in. Driven into the rafter end, a hidden hanger holds far better than a spike, which loosens a little with every expansion cycle. In snow country, tighten the spacing as well.
Can I mix hidden hangers and spikes on the same run?
You can, and it will hold. But the remaining spikes are still the weak point and will be the first thing to work loose, so you are likely to be back up there.